Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Winter in the King Range




Expect and prepare to be wet and cold.

Leave No Trace principle #1 is to Plan Ahead and Prepare:

“Poor planning often results in miserable campers and damage to natural and cultural resources. Rangers often tell stories of campers they have encountered who, because of poor planning and unexpected conditions, degrade backcountry resources and put themselves at risk.”


Watch the weather closely for the days and weeks leading up to your trip. We can receive 100+ inches of rain in the King Range during the winter months. I recommend having full waterproof/breathable rain gear for upper and lower body and several pairs of socks. Practice setting up your tent so you can do it quickly in the rain (easier with more than one person). The problem I’ve found with a traditional style tent is that you first set up the tent body while it fills with rain and then put your rain fly on last – welcome to your new wet home. You may be able to develop a system to avoid this problem but after much time spent camping in the rain on the Lost Coast I have discovered that I prefer a floorless shelter system. This allows me to avoid the problem stated above as the floor of the tent (I use a small, light tarp) is set up last so that it stays dry. You'll want to keep your wet rainfly/tent seperate from the rest of your gear. I recommend bringing heavy duty trash bags for your wet and dry gear. A pack cover is also a good idea (you can modify a trash bag for that too).


With heavy rains the creeks in the King Range can rise rapidly and there is the possibility that they will be impassable within a day or several hours of an intense down pour. However, streams may recede to a safe crossing level within a day or several hours after it has stopped raining. Of course, this depends on how long and heavy it has been raining for. Have a backup plan to turn back, wait it out, or take an upland trail (which will add considerable mileage and time to your trip).

General rule of thumb says not to attempt a creek crossing if it is deeper than your knees. It’s usually easier to cross at a wide spot, where the creek tends to be shallower, rather than where it is narrow and deeper. On the Lost Coast, at low tide, this means that it is often (but not always) easier to find a place to cross closer to the ocean where the creeks tend to widen. However, the closer you go towards the ocean the more you need to keep a close eye on wave behavior. Large waves with high energy can race far up the beach without warning. Unsuspecting hikers can be washed out to sea in an instant from these occurrences. Watch this short video I took about 45 minutes after low tide at Black Sands Beach last winter.


Follow these links for information on tides, local weather conditions and local coastal waters forecast.


Also, there are very neat and informative graphical models of percipitation:






Know that there 4 “impassable during high tide” sections on the trail:

1. Punta Gorda (I personally have not had trouble passing this spot unless it is a very high tide and/or swell)
2. Sea Lion Gulch to Randall Creek
3. Miller Flat to about one mile south of Buck Creek

4. South of Shelter Cove is Point No Pass. This is impassable at ALL tide levels. Do Not Attempt. If you plan to hike from Shelter Cove to the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park catch the Lost Coast Trail at Hidden Valley. The trailhead is on Chemise Mountain Road, off of Shelter Cove Road.

How high of a tide is too high to pass? It’s difficult to say exactly but, all other factors aside, somewhere between 3.5 to 4.5 feet. Watch the ocean condition predictions, especially during the winter months, because large waves can impede and make travel potentially dangerous - even during low tides.

Also, know that during high tide you can be camped at the major creeks (named on the map) that are in the middle of the “impassable at high tide” zones because the creek mouths give you plenty of space to move up off the beach.

With all of this, even though we still have warm weather predicted for the next week or so, you should be prepared for wet and cold conditions and have a backup plan.

As of now the creeks and trails are still very much passable since we have had very little rain. But, keep an eye on the weather and as conditions change I will post updated information on this blog. You can also call our office at 707-986-5400, which is open M-F 8:00-4:30.

There are still nice days in winter if you can plan between storms! Photo by Cornelius Graubner.



Drop me a line if you have any questions






Your Wilderness Ranger,



Paul

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Healthy Streams and Happy Fish - A Message from the BLM Fisheries Biologist

As you hike the Lost Coast Trail you'll notice on the beaches and at creek mouths a large supply of wood debris. Much of the wood you see originates in coastal streams up and down the coast. This wood serves a vital importance to fish and wildlife.

In the picture above, practice using your "fish eyes" to spot the juvenile Steelhead in one of the many streams of the Lost Coast.

At the mouths of coastal streams these large pieces of wood get wedged and locked into many different formations. As the rainy season brings wood of various sizes down the streams, these jams will produce cover and relief to fish. In addition, as the powerful water flows over and through the wood, it carves out deep pools into the bottom of the streams. These large pools serve as refuge during both low and high flows for salmon and steelhead.



The mouths of these streams are amazing and ideal locations for campsites. Many campers use the wood from the mouth and surrounding beaches for firewood and/or shelter. Leave-No-Trace, The Center for Outdoor Ethics, states to use dead and downed wood no bigger in diameter than the size of your wrist and that can easily be broken by hand. The reasoning for this is to reduce fire danger, keep campsites clean and keep wildlife habitat intact. If campfires are permitted, Please be respectful in your use of the wood in close proximity to the mouths of streams.



Another disruption that has occurred is the movement of rocks and boulders in the streams to create dams and swimming holes – Surely there is nothing wrong with taking a dip, but rock formations create barriers for fish during the low flows and can also change the natural course of the stream. In addition, it can cause the water temperature to increase which is stressful and potentially deadly to fish.

Please be respectful to the streams and creeks that you may camp at. You can help keep the streams healthy and the fish happy by not disturbing their habitat.



If you have any questions about fish and wildlife habitat contact AJ Donnell at 707-825-2321, or adonnell@blm.gov.



You can contact me about hiking the King Range and the Lost Coast





Your Wilderness Ranger,


Paul

Thursday, November 3, 2011

Roads Closed for the Winter

If you are planning a trip to the King Range keep in mind that you will not be able to drive to Spanish Ridge, Kinsey Ridge, North Slide Peak Trailheads and Windy Point due to the seasonal closure of Smith-Etter Road and Windy Point Road. During the winter, which usually gets 100+ inches of rain, we close these two 4WD only roads to help reduce erosion problems that can occur with driving on steep and muddy roads.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Campfire Restrictions Lifted

Campfires are now permitted in the King Range National Conservation Area in all backcountry camp sites. If you decide to have a campfire please help to minimize your impacts:

1. Use existing fire rings and keep your campfire small. Building large fire rings encourages the burning of larger pieces of wood. This tends to spread ash outside of the ring and breaks down its perimeter (see picture below). In turn, this leads to an eye sore for other visitors and encourages them to build another fire ring - multiplying the impacts.

2. Use dead and downed wood. If you encounter a lack of firewood and feel the need to cut live limbs off trees you should reconsider your need for a campfire. Collect wood that can be broken by hand to help keep the campfire small and reduce your impacts.

3. Please pack out your trash and do not burn it in your campfire unless it can be completely burned in one sitting and you plan to do so. Examples of things that often do not burn completely in one sitting: Anything lined in foil (e.g. Mountain House packaging), metal cans, plastics, and food scraps.

4. To extinguish your campfire soak it with plenty of water and stir. Smothering with sand often doesn’t put the fire out completely and when the wind picks up it blows the sand off leaving a potentially hazardous situation. Also, this fills the ring with sand which in time makes the ring undesirable and encourages others to build new campfire rings – spreading the impact.

Remember, you are one of many people here to enjoy the landscape. Please help keep the Lost Coast clean and pristine for all.

Your Wilderness Ranger
Paul
707-986-5405
lostcoastranger@gmail.com

Monday, September 19, 2011

The Summer Season is Coming to a Close

Well, that’s right: Things are slowing down around the King Range. The days are getting noticeably shorter, the seasonal rangers are back at school, the Student Conservation Association has moved on and soon the rains will be upon us.

First off, we just found this great site that lets you see the current conditions at Shelter Cove:
http://northcoastaviation.com/shelter_cove/shelter_cove_northwest.htm



Here is the summer wrap in a nut shell:


Numbers! As of today, over 5,100 people have backpacked the trails in the King Range NCA since October 1, 2010. That’s quite a bit of people! Of that 5,100, most people use the Lost Coast Trail at some point in their travels. While you are out in the King Range enjoying yourselves remember that there were people here before you and there will be people here after you. Almost every night, especially during the summer months, there are people camped at each of the major drainages along the LCT. Every action you take will impact the experiences of the next people to visit. This can be either positive or negative. If you practice Leave-No-Trace principles and you leave the minimal impact possible your actions will have a positive and lasting impression.


One of the more surprising things I came across this summer was a boat load of trash at Gitchell Creek that had accumulated in a large barrel. The barrel had come ashore from the ocean, as a lot of things do, and I suppose people thought it was deliberately put there by the BLM for trash disposal. The BLM does not provide a trash/sanitation department to haul out trash (besides myself and the seasonal rangers). Please keep YOUR Wilderness clean for yourself and for the next visitors. But anyhow, we packed out the trash and the barrel. Besides this incident, I didn’t notice an unusually large amount of trash on the trails or in the campsites throughout the summer – which I’m very happy about. I did, however, find a lot of toilet paper, which brings me to my next point.

Please, Please, Please, bury your waste properly! As mentioned above, over 5,100 people hike here annually – this equates to a lot of turds and a lot of toilet paper!

If you are on any of the upland trails in the King Range, standard Leave-No-Trace practice says to go 200 feet (which is about 70 paces) away from campsites, water sources and trails. However, if you are on the Lost Coast Trail you must go in the wet sand near the ocean (intertidal). Simply dig a hole 6-8 inches deep in the wet sand (or as close as you can safely get), make your deposit, and cover it back up with sand. You can put your toilet paper in but really the best thing to do is to pack it out. I know it sounds a little “exposed” to go out on the beach. Personally, if I’m at camp when the situation arises I just go for a little walk to where I feel comfortable (usually a few minutes down the beach).

After Labor Day I found and picked up/reburied a ridiculous number of tp wads and several turds – most of which were right next to campsites!

There are 4 goals with human waste disposal in the backcountry (if you are a regular reader of this blog you may notice I reiterate myself from time to time):

1. Minimize contact with water sources

2. Minimize contact with insects and wildlife (have you ever wondered why there are so many flies at your camp? Chances are there is unburied fecal matter next to you).


3. Minimize social impacts (the disgusting factor when you see a pile of waste right next to where you are camping)

4. Maximize decomposition (when we bury it 6-8 inches it maximizes decomposition by mixing with the soil and microbiological organisms. Putting a 6-8 inch rock on top of it is not burying it).

Because of the narrow beaches and steep slopes within the major drainages along the trail it is nearly impossible to find a place 200 feet away from camp, drinking water, and trails and the best (and only) way to meet the 4 goals above it to go intertidal.

Lastly, we had more than one out of control fire at Spanish Flat this summer. One was caused by a campfire and another was from a camp stove. We are still currently in full campfire restrictions because the fuels (vegetation) are extremely dry. During the start of fire restrictions we try to dismantle as many fire rings as we can and rehab the site – especially at campsites that pose a real threat by out of control campfires, such as Randall Creek below.



Camp stoves can be just as dangerous as a campfire and I would highly suggest against using one in an area that is surrounded by dry grasses.


Remember, there were people here before you and there will be people here after you. Help keep the Lost Coast clean and do the right thing.


Give me a call or send me an e-mail if you have any questions,


Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

707-986-5405

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Great News in the King Range!

The Shelter Cove General Store is now renting out bear cans with a $50 deposit plus $20 for up to 4 days and $5/day thereafter. They are open 7 days a week 7:30am to 7:30pm. Their number is 707-986-7733; you may want to call them to verify inventory, prices, etc.

As a reminder, ALL overnight visitors in the King Range are required to have a bear can and to use it properly ($150 fine for noncompliance). ALL scented items, such as food, toothpaste, sunscreen and trash from said items needs to be stored in the bear can. Hanging food is not an option in the King Range as there are limited trees that meet the requirements for an effective food hang.

We rent out the Garcia bear can here at the BLM Project Office in Whitethorn for $5 for your entire journey. You will need a credit card and a valid drivers license (if you don’t return the bear can you will buy it). We are open Monday-Friday 8-4:30. You can also rent from the BLM Field Office in Arcata which has the same hours as the Project office here in Whitethorn: Monday-Friday 8-4:30.The Petrolia General Store on the northern end of the King Range also rents cans for $5. Their hours are Monday-Saturday 9-5:30 and Sunday from 11-5:00. You will also need a credit card but they take cash only. Their number is 707-629-3455 if you want to verify the hours or have other questions.

So far this year, 94% of the people visiting have had a bear can with them – there really is no reason for that not to be 100%, especially now that there are so many places available to rent bear cans! Please, help protect the bears in the King Range (and protect your food).

Give me a call or send me an e-mail if you have any questions,

Your Wilderness Ranger,
Paul
lostcoastranger@gmail.com; 707-986-5405

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Mark Your Calendars for National Public Lands Day!

National Public Lands Day (NPLD) is a single day event that brings together thousands of volunteers to give back to the lands that they recreate on. This year the King Range National Conservation Area will be hosting an event to build a new section of trail around Hidden Valley (above) on the southern end of the Conservation Area. In addition, the Bigfoot Mountain Bike Club will be here to help build new mountain biking trails. While many of the trails in the King Range can be strenuous in some way, the Hidden Valley Interpretive Trail will provide you with an opportunity to experience the gentler side of the King Range. In its entirety, the trail will consist of 2.5 miles that circumnavigate the valley while providing for interpretive opportunities and grand ocean views.





I’m really excited for what this trail will have to offer you and the King Range. NPLD will be a great opportunity for you to give back to your public lands and to get out and recreate. We have over 80 miles of hiking trails for you to explore as well as a top notch mountain biking trail just minutes from where we will be working.


Volunteers will receive free camping on Friday and Saturday, one free day pass to any participating public lands (good for 1 year), a NPLD shirt and a BBQ hosted by the BLM. How awesome is that? Very awesome, so mark your calendar and don’t miss National Public Lands Day here at the King Range on October 15! If you plan to attend or want more information please call Pam, our contact representative at 707-986-5400.


Hope to see you out there!


Your Wilderness Ranger,
Paul