Lost Coast Trail and the King Range Wilderness
These are the personal thoughts of the King Range Wilderness Ranger. The purpose of this site is to get information to you, the potential visitor, so you can better plan your trip. The views and opinions expressed here do not represent the views or official positions of the BLM or the Department of the Interior
Friday, April 21, 2017
Wednesday, January 25, 2017
Winter
Attention: Due to extreme winter storms, most trails in the King Range Wilderness are impassable. Backpacking and hiking are discouraged at this time due to landslides, downed trees, high creek levels, and snow which are impacting the trails.
The Road Between Mattole and Black Sands Beach is closed.
Check Other Road Conditions.
Before heading out to the King Range this winter to go backpacking research the current and projected conditions.
If it's sunny or storming is only one factor to consider.
Also be aware of the marine conditions - large swells will make it extremely difficult and hazardous to hike on the beach.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Any day can be potentially high risk for sneaker waves (often most dangerous on sunny days because there are more people on the beach and they are less expected).
High winds will make your trip miserable - and potentially dangerous also.
Point is: Just because it's sunny doesn't mean that it will be a good time to backpack the Lost Coast Trail during the winter. If it's not sunny, you definitely don't want to be out here. There could be calm days between storms but really know all of the conditions before you head out. This winter has been particularly wet and stormy with rough seas.
Read these blog posts for more information about general winter conditions and travel advice.
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2016/01/winter-travels-safety-first.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2015/11/careful-of-sneaker-waves.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2012/11/winter-conditions-prepare-for-worst.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2011/12/winter-in-king-range-what-to-expect.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2013/09/rescue-on-lost-coast.html
For current conditions call the King Range Project Office: 707-986-5400
The Road Between Mattole and Black Sands Beach is closed.
Check Other Road Conditions.
Before heading out to the King Range this winter to go backpacking research the current and projected conditions.
If it's sunny or storming is only one factor to consider.
Also be aware of the marine conditions - large swells will make it extremely difficult and hazardous to hike on the beach.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Today
Sunny, with a high near 53. Northeast wind around 5 mph becoming calm in the morning.
Tonight
Mostly clear, with a low around 40. Calm wind.
Saturday
Sunny, with a high near 54. Calm wind.
Saturday Night
Mostly clear, with a low around 40. Calm wind.
Sunday
Mostly sunny, with a high near 53. Light north wind.
Meanwhile...
Beach Hazards Statement
COASTAL HAZARD MESSAGE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE EUREKA CA 415 AM PST FRI JAN 27 2017 CAZ101-103-104-109-272015- /O.CON.KEKA.BH.S.0002.000000T0000Z-170128T0000Z/ COASTAL DEL NORTE-NORTHERN HUMBOLDT COAST-SOUTHWESTERN HUMBOLDT- MENDOCINO COAST- 415 AM PST FRI JAN 27 2017 ...BEACH HAZARDS STATEMENT REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 4 PM PST THIS AFTERNOON... * SNEAKER WAVES...THE SNEAKER WAVE THREAT WILL INCREASE FRIDAY AS THE LONG PERIOD SWELL LINGERS THROUGHOUT THE WATERS. * IMPACTS...LONG LULLS WITH COMPARATIVELY SMALL WAVES ARE LIKELY TO DEVELOP BETWEEN SETS OF LARGER WAVES. THESE LULLS MAY LAST SEVERAL MINUTES...GIVING BEACHGOERS A FALSE SENSE OF SECURITY PRIOR TO THE ARRIVAL OF LARGER WAVES THAT WASH FARTHER ONTO THE BEACH THAN EXPECTED. THESE WAVES CAN EASILY WASH BEACHGOERS INTO THE FRIGID AND TURBULENT WATERS. PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS... BEACHGOERS ARE ADVISED TO OBSERVE THE OCEAN FROM A SAFE DISTANCE...AND ALWAYS PAY ATTENTION TO THE WAVES WHEN VENTURING CLOSE TO THE SURF ZONE.
Hazardous Weather Outlook
HAZARDOUS WEATHER OUTLOOK NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE EUREKA CA 405 AM PST FRI JAN 27 2017 CAZ101-103-104-109-281215- COASTAL DEL NORTE-NORTHERN HUMBOLDT COAST-SOUTHWESTERN HUMBOLDT- MENDOCINO COAST- 405 AM PST FRI JAN 27 2017 THIS HAZARDOUS WEATHER OUTLOOK IS FOR NORTHWEST CALIFORNIA. .DAY ONE...TODAY AND TONIGHT. A DIMINISHING LONG PERIOD WESTERLY SWELL OF 10 FT AT 16 SECONDS WILL BRING A THREAT FOR SNEAKER WAVES TODAY. .DAYS TWO THROUGH SEVEN...SATURDAY THROUGH THURSDAY. NO HAZARDOUS WEATHER IS EXPECTED AT THIS TIME. .SPOTTER INFORMATION STATEMENT... SPOTTER ACTIVATION IS NOT EXPECTED AT THIS TIME.
Any day can be potentially high risk for sneaker waves (often most dangerous on sunny days because there are more people on the beach and they are less expected).
High winds will make your trip miserable - and potentially dangerous also.
Point is: Just because it's sunny doesn't mean that it will be a good time to backpack the Lost Coast Trail during the winter. If it's not sunny, you definitely don't want to be out here. There could be calm days between storms but really know all of the conditions before you head out. This winter has been particularly wet and stormy with rough seas.
Read these blog posts for more information about general winter conditions and travel advice.
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2016/01/winter-travels-safety-first.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2015/11/careful-of-sneaker-waves.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2012/11/winter-conditions-prepare-for-worst.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2011/12/winter-in-king-range-what-to-expect.html
http://lostcoastranger.blogspot.com/2013/09/rescue-on-lost-coast.html
For current conditions call the King Range Project Office: 707-986-5400
Friday, January 13, 2017
NEW King Range Individual Wilderness Permit Requirement
The Bureau of
Land Management will require permits for overnight use in the King Range
Wilderness, part of the King Range National Conservation Area on northern
California’s Lost Coast, beginning Jan. 9, 2017. The requirement will not affect day-use visitors
or campgrounds outside the wilderness area.
The permit system will limit the number of people entering
the King Range Wilderness for overnight use to 60 entries per day during the peak
season of May 15-Sept. 15, and 30 entries per day during the non-peak season of
Sept. 16-May14.
Starting Jan. 9, 2017, King Range visitors can visit www.recreation.gov to book their overnight permits.
Permits will cost $6 per group. Visitors
can also purchase permits by visiting the King Range office in Whitethorn.
The new permitting requirement will help the BLM manage the
number of visitors, preserving the wilderness experience of solitude. Overnight use has increased by more than 150
percent since the King Range Wilderness was designated in 2006, from 3,300
overnight visitors to more than 9,500 in 2015.
Visitor days (number of visitors multiplied by the number of days they stay) have increased from 12,400 to 34,400 in the same time.
“The new permit
system will help meet the intent of the Wilderness Act by reducing overcrowding,” said Molly
Brown, BLM Arcata field manager. “Current use levels have negatively impacted the wilderness
character of the King Range Wilderness, particularly along the Lost Coast
Trail.”
The BLM decided
to put the permit system in place after receiving extensive public input over
more than a decade as part of the King Range National Conservation Area
Resource Management Plan and the King Range Wilderness Management Plan.
Additional information regarding the permit and
management plans are available online at (insert
address); by request to the BLM-Arcata
Field Office, (707) 825-2300; or request to the King Range Office, PO Drawer
189, Whitethorn, CA 95589, (707) 986-5400; or by sending an email request to CA338@BLM.GOV.
Tuesday, August 16, 2016
Signing Out
Greetings from Colorado. There haven’t been any new posts in
several months because I moved to Grand Junction, Colorado at the end of March
to continue recreation work with BLM.
I started working as a seasonal wilderness ranger for the
King Range NCA in 2009 and became permanent in 2011. It didn’t take long to
stop counting how many times I hiked the Lost Coast Trail, or how many miles I
walked, but it’s enough to say that I know the King Range National Conservation
Area very well. I’ve enjoyed my time
here but I decided that it was time to shake things up a bit and see some new country. Of course, not a week goes by that I don’t day dream
about the Lost Coast.
I’ve seen it change quite a bit since my first season. This
is an ever changing landscape that is being sculpted by waves, wind, rain, and
seismic activity. Every spring the rivers have a new mouth, sometimes shifting
hundreds of feet. Hillsides erode and crumble into the sea. Ocean creatures
such as whales, octopus, anemones, and all sorts of fish are washed onto the
shore where birds are always waiting at the breaking waves for their next meal
to appear. Year after year I’ve observed the movement of the same ginormous
logs that are thrown onto the beach during large winter swells. They stay there
throughout the summer only to be gobbled up again by the ocean the following
winter and moved another few hundred feet down the beach.
And then there’s the wildlife. There’s the time a bear came
into by camp (with volunteers) and violently shook and slammed every bear
canister onto the ground. Another time a bear silently circled my camp late at
night, strolling within feet of my hammock. I really enjoyed when I was working
up on the switchbacks of Rattlesnake Ridge Trail when I looked down at Big Flat
Creek to witness a bear slowly making his way down the creek and soaking at every
pool of water (or looking for fish?).
The river otters are always a delight to see. By far my
favorite is when I observed several young otters learning how to catch fish.
The family of otters scurried into the waves together and only after a few
minutes the adult otter (mother?) caught a fish and pulled it up onto a rock to
eat. One by one, each of the youngsters took a try at getting a bite. But the adult was determined that they each get a fish of their own and none of them
had a “free meal.” Well, she finished her dinner and watched the kids try on their own. Soon she decided to get back in the water and show them,
again, how it was done. It didn’t take long for her to pull another fish up
onto the rock, this time she shared.
One of my favorite creeks on the coast has a deep pool near
its mouth. It was here that I was eating lunch while waiting for the tide to
recede one afternoon when I witnessed 2 snakes attempting to catch fish in the
pool. They lied out on a log that crossed over the pool and intently watched
the fish dart around below the surface. Then suddenly, one of the snakes would
strike down into the pool and I’d see flashes of light followed by a dark
streaks whiz around in the water in the grand dance of life-death. But alas,
the snake slithered back onto shore and onto the log with an empty mouth and
began his intense gaze back into the water, completely stiff except for his
head ever so slightly moving back and forth.
I have dozens of stories like this but of course they don’t
happen every day or even every week. But I do run into and talk with people
every day. People like you who are reading this right now, planning your trip.
It’s wonderful to meet people from all over the country and all over the world
who come all the way out to this remote area of northern California to
experience the rugged, beautiful and unforgiving Lost Coast. Visitation has
continued to increase and nearly doubles every few years – the lost coast isn’t
lost and it hasn’t been for a long time. That being said, you can still find
solitude if you know when and where to look. What has always been difficult to
escape, though, is the evidence of mankind – the trash, toilet paper, human
waste, graffiti, and campsite structures. Although I have gradually found less
and less junk hanging from the trees and slightly less exposed turds, I have
always packed out large amounts of trash and litter year after year. A
large part of this is in the form of micro trash – bits of wrappers, twisty
ties, nylon strings, tent stakes, ten foil, orange peels and all sorts of odd
bits of plastic. After I go to every campsite on the coast I’d always come off
the trail with at least a half-gallon worth of micro trash, minimum.
These, maybe from one individual...
Adds up to this from multiple visitors
every week it's a fresh batch of trash left behind.
My guess
is that most micro trash is left unintentionally. I’ve found a good way to
avoid leaving trash and other items behind is to always check my campsite and
resting locations before I leave them. I also have ONE designated pocket - a backpocket or a cargo work well – for wrappers
and other small trash items. This way you’re not getting into this pocket for your
camera or sunscreen while pulling out wrappers that blow away in the wind in the
process. Keep in mind that most things don’t burn. A lot of what
I pack out is from fire rings: Plastics, metal cans, foils, and food! Notorious
fire ring trash is instant freeze dried food packaging (e.g.
mountain house); these are thick plastic and foil!!!! They don’t burn.
A used Mountain House package just left here.
Bottom line is: if it’s not straight paper
- like cardboard or toilet paper - please don't burn it. Leaving anything behind
is an eye sore for other visitors and reminds them of the dirty, busy, noisy
city life that they probably came here to escape. Seeing wrappers at a
campsite, toilet paper dangling from a bush, a pile of trash inside of a circle
of rocks, and marine debris “artfully” hanging from a tree are the very things
that most people come here to avoid. We can do better. We can do better picking
up after ourselves and we can also pick up and pack out things that aren’t ours.
The torch is being passed to you. You have, and always have
had, the responsibility. I was just an educator and a custodian – it’s your land (and the land of all the flora and fauna, more importantly). How do you want to leave it for the next visitor, for your next visit, and for your children?
This blog will still be here and will have more than enough
information for you to successfully plan a trip. If you have any general
questions about trip planning you can still shoot me an e-mail but anything
immediate or about current conditions you should call the King Range Project
Office.
Paul
PS: I was hiking up Big Flat Creek during early spring and came across these sights. How do you think these happened?
PS: I was hiking up Big Flat Creek during early spring and came across these sights. How do you think these happened?
Thursday, June 30, 2016
Major slide in Sinkyone
Apparently there has been a major slide on the trail between Needle Rock and Bear Harbor in the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park (southern half of the Lost Coast Trail).
The Lost Coast Trail south of Needle Rock in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park is OPEN. The slide is still impacting the trail and making travel very difficult and more dangerous. State Parks is advising people not to hike the trail and for those who still want to hike to proceed at their own risk.
State Parks is still making a determination if the trail should be closed.
Tuesday, April 5, 2016
Meet Ben: He Helped Remove Beach Garbage From the Lost Coast
THANKS BEN!
You can also be like Ben. Remove some garbage, take a picture of it at the end of your trip, and I'll post it to the blog!
"Hat Rock" is impassable at all tide levels
There is an area of the Lost Coast Trail about 1 mile south of Sea Lion Gulch that is impassable at all tide levels. At this area you will need to travel up off the beach for about a 1/2 mile.
If traveling North to South, this is what the area will look like:
As mentioned above, this is where the hill side has been eroded from the winter storms. You will need to scramble a bit here.
If traveling North to South, this is what the area will look like:
From standing at Sea Lion Gulch looking south. The pink arrow is where you will want to travel up the creek a few hundred feet and find the trail to go overland.
As you approach you will see this rocky area. The trail goes up and over this. Just walk up the creek a bit to find the trail.
Next, You will come to this sign:
This is the Junction of the Lost Coast Trail with the Cooskie Spur Trail.The LCT goes back north for a short distance, following a fence line. Go through the gate (please close) and drop back down to the beach. The storms this winter eroded the hillside a bit so don't expect there to be a trail for the last 15 feet down to the beach.
If you are traveling South to North this is what you will see:
As mentioned above, this is where the hill side has been eroded from the winter storms. You will need to scramble a bit here.
When you see this sign, go up and over!
Hopefully this helps you find your way.
If you have any questions please call: 707-986-5400
Paul
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