King Range is CLOSED Through May 30th

The entire King Range National Conservation Area is closed until May 30th as the search for Shasta County triple homicide suspect, Shane Miller, continues.

For more information visit Lostcoastoutpost 

Fascinating Creatures of the King Range

I ran across several of these Newts today in a small pond in the King Range NCA. I originally had these misidentified as Red-bellied but a gentleman called me today and informed me that these are actually Rough-skinned. I shot an e-mail to our Forest Ecologist and he confirmed this:

the photos you took are of a rough-skinned newt (Taricha granulosa). Their bellies range from yellow to orange and they have yellow in their eyes, whereas the red-bellied newt (Taricha rivularis) has a red or bright orange belly and an all black eye (no yellow). Both are toxic so washing one's hands after handling them is a good idea. 

So there we have it! These are definitely some of my favorite creatures - and they are native to the forests along the coast of northern California.

Spring Break on the Lost Coast: What to Know

Spring break will soon be upon us and if you’re reading this you may be thinking about visiting the King Range for your break. I’m here with fellow backpackers Sam and Rudolph who are hounding me with questions that you will also find useful.

1. What’s the weather usually like this time of year?

Well, March of 2012 was very wet but it looks like things may be a bit on the dryer side this year. Continue to check the local forecast and be prepared for any kind of weather conditions as events can change frequently and rapidly here on the coast.

Above is a snapshot of the 14 day precipitation model on March 11.

Also, the creeks are quite low and easily passible as of this moment. Expect that if current conditions (low rainfall) continue that these conditions will persist –unless/until we get seriously dumped on.  

2. There are sections of trail that are impassible at high tide, right?

That's correct. You need to have a map, a tide chart and know where the  4 “impassable during high tide” sections of trail are. Pass through these areas at low tide. It is a good idea to start passing through 1-3 hours before the time that low tide is indicated on the chart as this is the low point and the tide will start to come back up after this.

Above, a backpacker times the waves and attempts to pass arond a rocky cliff.

The impassable at high tide sections of trail are:

Punta Gorda 

Sea Lion Gulch to Randall Creek

Miller Flat to about one mile south of Buck Creek

South of Shelter Cove is Point No Pass. This is impassable at ALL tide levels. Do Not Attempt. If you plan to hike from Shelter Cove to the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park catch the Lost Coast Trail at Hidden Valley. The trailhead is on Chemise Mountain Road, off of Shelter Cove Road.

Also, know that during high tide you can be camped at the major creeks (named on the map) that are in the middle of the “impassable at high tide” zones because the creek mouths give you plenty of space to move up off the beach.

3. Do I need to get some kind of a permit? What is this for?

Yes.  The permit serves multiple purposes. It serves as a way to get essential information to you and to ultimately reduce impacts to the wilderness environment. It is also a tool to locate lost/missing hikers. For example, if we notice a vehicle has been sitting at a trailhead for an unusual amount of time we can try to find a permit with a matching licensed plate number. Based on what they indicated on their permit we can determine how many people are in their group, where they planned to go, and when they planned to come out of the backcountry (this information also helps to calm worried family members who occasionally call our office – it’s a good practice to tell someone where you’re going and the details of your plans). For the King Range, this backcountry permit also serves as your campfire permit. When you sign the permit you,

“…agree to follow the guidelines for overnight camping in the King Range backcountry, especially regarding the use of bear-proof canisters, backcountry sanitation, and the use of fire.”

Currently, we have free self-service permits that you can pick up at any of the trailheads or at our office in Whitethorn (768 Shelter Cove Road). Please take a few moments before your trip to fill one out AND read it over front to back with ALL members of your party.

4. Are there bears in the King Range? Do I need a bear canister to store food and scented items?

Yes and yes. The number ONE thing you can do to respect wildlife in the King Range is to have a bear canister and to use it properly. The bear can is to protect the bears from your food and the extra bonus is that you also protect your food from the bears. You will notice on top of the Garcia Backpackers’ Cache it says, “Save the bears” (it does not say, “Save your food”). So, what does this mean? When a bear starts to eat human food and learns that humans can be associated with an easy meal they will lose their fear of humans, come around campsites more often, and become increasingly aggressive. This is what you would call a “habituated” or “food conditioned” bear and they could eventually need to be put down if the aggression gets out of hand.

Hanging your food is NOT an option in the King Range and on the Lost Coast Trail. You may be experienced with hanging food but there is a serious lack of sufficient trees on the LCT. Requirements for hanging food vary from place to place but generally 10’ high and 4’ from the base of the tree would be sufficient. You are not going to be able to achieve this on the LCT.

All overnight visitors must store all of their food, toiletries and scented items (Including trash!) in a hard-sided bear-proof container approved by the Sierra Interagency Black Bear Group (SIBBG). We rent out the Garcia bear can here at the BLM Project Office in Whitethorn for $5 for your entire journey. You will need a credit card and a drivers licensed (if you don’t return the bear can you will buy it). We are open Monday-Friday 8-4:30.

Other places to rent cans (call for availability, hours and prices):

BLM Arcata Field Office (same hours and prices as the Whitethorn office)

1695 Heindon Rd. Arcata

707-825-2300

Shelter Cove General Store

7272 Shelter Cove Rd. Whitethorn

707-986-7733

HSU center Activities

707-826-3357

http://humboldt.edu/centeractivities/rentalGear.php

Petrolia General Store

707-629-3455

REI also rents bear cans but the pricing varies from store to store so I won’t list it here. They did tell me that it is substantially less expensive for members, however.

Lastly, there are two other critters that the bear can is good for: the raccoon and the mouse. These little animals are a nuisance as far as your food is concerned. They are very active and also want your food.

Do yourself a favor AND help protect the animals in the king range by getting a bear can.

5. I heard there was a unique method of human waste disposal on the LCT, what is that?

The steep and rocky cliffs along the trail and at the major drainages/camping areas make finding a place to go 200 feet away from campsites, trails, and drinking water sources (standard Leave No Trace practice) nearly impossible – therefore, we have found that the ocean is the most ideal place to dispose of human waste (while on the coastal trail).



When you need to dispose of solid human waste on the LCT dig a hole 6-8 inches deep in the wet sand below the high tide line (or as close to the wet sand as safely possible), make your deposit, and then cover the hole with sand. On all other inland trails please go about 70 paces (200’) from campsites, trails, and water sources to help protect the streams we get our water from and to keep the campsites sanitary. AND Nobody wants to camp next to your turd. C’mon.

There are 4 goals with human waste disposal in the backcountry:

1. Minimize contact with water sources

2. Minimize contact with insects and wildlife

3. Minimize social impacts. This is the disgusting factor when you see a pile of waste right next to where you are camping.

4. Maximize decomposition (when we bury it 6-8 inches it maximizes decomposition by mixing with the soil and microbiological organisms. Putting a 6-8 inch rock on top of it is not burying it).

What about the TP?

Good question. You can go ahead and toss that into the hole with the waste. But, if you want to be a true LNT guru you can bring a good solid plastic bag and pack it out. Some folks that do this line the outside of the bag with duct tape to help reinforcement and for visual purposes.

6. Can I have a camp fire this time of year?

Campfires are permitted right now (March) We ask that you use existing fire rings and keep the fire small by using only small pieces of wood that you can break by hand. This helps contain the fire in the ring, helps to keep the campsites clean and reduces fire danger. Larger pieces of wood tend to spread ash outside of the ring and breaks down its perimeter. In turn, this leads to an eye sore for other visitors and encourages them to build another fire ring - multiplying the impacts.Please put your fire out with plenty of water with the soak and stir method. It should be cool to the touch by the time you’re done.

A campfire ring in a state of dissaray - lets do our best to avoid this



Also, please pack out your trash. This is general knowledge and backcountry etiquette but am surprised about the amount of trash I sometimes find and pack out of the wilderness.

FYI, glass, cans and foil don’t burn.  

6. Hey, Paul do you think it’s cool if I blast out the good vibes with my handheld radio?

 

Keep in mind that many folks that come out here would like to experience the sights and sounds of nature, not whatever music you may be listening to. So, maybe not “blast” but if you want to listen to music I encourage you to keep it low and/or use headphones to respect other visitors.

Well, I think that just about covers it unless you two have any other questions?

Actually, yeah, I’m curious what do you eat when you’re out on the trail?

Hmm. Ok. Well, I’ve been really into burritos lately. I get dehydrated black and pinto bean flakes from the bulk bins at the grocery store, cook those up and toss ‘em on a large tortilla with cheese and avocado (pack out remains) and hot sauce. This really hits the spot.

For breakfast I usually have oatmeal or granola and two hardboiled eggs (I prep the eggs before my trip). Lunch usually consists of a variety of nuts, dried fruit and beef jerky. Maybe some cheese and an energy bar of some sort.

Ok, well you guys have a good time out there. You should definitely check out the Leave No Trace web page before you’re trip.

Give me a call if you have any questions

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

707-986-5405

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

Historic Shipwreck on the Lost Coast

In September of 1867 the USS Shubrick, a steamer that served as a lighthouse tender, was in route to Cape Mendocino Lighthouse to deliver supplies. In heavy fog the ship wrecked and the captain ran her aground at Big Flat. For months on end the crew laboriously repaired the ship on shore. Subtle signs of this endeavor can still be seen at Big Flat. Also, notice the peak above the flat is named after the vessel (and the crew) that it watched over for nearly a year, a century and a half ago.

                                          Photo from NPS. Courtesy of USCG Historian's office

Original article published in the New York Times (thank you) describes the events in more detail. 

Wet and Cold Pattern to Continue For the Remainder of December

Above is the 5 day total precipitation forecast for December 17-22.

Friday December 21 - Wednesday December 26

A series of weather systems will move across northern California during this six day period bring periods of rain and snow in the higher elevations.  The heaviest precipitation is expected Saturday night through the day Sunday. The outlook is calling for the potential of 1 to 2 inches of rain during this period. Thus there is a potential for the mountain passes to be impacted by snow.  

Snow level will  be near 4,000 feet on Friday and Saturday and lower to near 3,500 feet on Sunday and remain near 3,500 feet through Wednesday.

Potential impacts with mid to late-December precipitation events.

Due to the saturated soil, all the main stem rivers will have rapid rises.

The tributary creeks and small rivers will also have significant rises and flows.

Rock and mudslides along highways and county roads in mountainous terrain.

Power outages are possible due to strong winds and blown down tree branches.  

Potential for hazardous driving conditions due to snow accumulation on mountain passes and higher elevation roadways with the colder systems. 

Check my previous post, Winter Conditions: Prepare for the worst, Hope for the best, for links to weather forecasts. 

Your Wilderness Ranger, 

Paul Sever

Road Closures for Winter Months

The following roads are closed for winter to maintain their integrity:

• Smith-Etter Road. This accesses North Slide Peak, Kinsey Ridge, and Spanish Ridge Trailheads. 

• Windy Point Road (off of Prosper Ridge Road near Mattole Campground). 

• Usal Road (Sinkyone Wilderness State Park)

Use caution on all other roads around the King Range. 

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul Sever

Winter Conditions: Prepare for the worst, hope for the best

Are you prepared for deep stream crossings, heavy rains, gale force winds, and hazardous sea conditions?

Leave No Trace principle #1 is to Plan Ahead and Prepare:

“Poor planning often results in miserable campers and damage to natural and cultural resources. Rangers often tell stories of campers they have encountered who, because of poor planning and unexpected conditions, degrade backcountry resources and put themselves at risk.”

Before you go know:

1. The streams in the King Range can rise rapidly following heavy and persistent rains. However, streams may recede to a safe crossing level within a day or several hours after it has stopped raining. Of course, this depends on how long and heavy it has been raining for. It is not advised to attempt a stream crossing that is deeper than knee height. If this is the case you may need to wait for the stream to subside to a safer level or turn around and go back. 

                                         Shipman Creek, Winter 2012

I am occasionally asked if one can take an overland route around the creeks if they are too high to cross. In theory this is possible. Yet, to get up high enough to actually find a place to avoid the stream crossing would add considerable time and energy to your trip. Are you prepared for an extra day or two of hiking? This isn’t a quick fix and most likely this is not something you would want to attempt.

2. Large waves with high energy can race far up the beach – sometimes without warning. This can make the sections of trail that are “impassable at high tide” (check a BLM King Range map) increasingly difficult to pass. It is tough to say exactly that at a sea condition of X and a tide level of X the trail becomes impassable.

However, expect that if there are hazardous sea conditions reported you will want to pass these sections of trail at the lowest tide possible and they will become increasingly hazardous. Also, sections of trail that are not marked as “impassable at high tide” can also be hazardous. The picture below is Telegraph Creek meeting a surge of ocean water at Black Sands Beach (not marked as impassable at high tide). Use your best judgment. Pay attention. 

Possible Situations: 

I’ve either witnessed or heard of all of the below scenarios happening to people.

1. You’re hiking along the Lost Coast Trail in light rains and the streams are high but still passable. On Day one of your hike heavy rains set in and persist through the night. On day two you realize that you’re unable to go north or south because the creeks are impassable. This adds an extra day to your journey that you didn’t plan for as you wait for the streams to lower. 

2. The creek is pretty high but you decide to attempt the crossing. Half way across you slip and are soaked head to toe – along with most of your gear.

3. A wave with intense energy races much farther up the beach than you expect and you jump up onto a small rock ledge at the last moment and cling on to whatever you can grab. The wave hits and knocks your feet off the rock but you’re still holding on. You’re now soaked and have a badly bruised knee.

4. You’re crossing a creek when a large wave surges up the beach and into the creek - You’re knocked down and get tumbled around between the two forces of water.  

5. Gale force gusts of wind wreck your tent leaving you out in the rain and forcing you to hike out in the night wet and miserable – if the tides permit.

With all this being said, you may have a great and wonderful trip and you may find exceptionally nice weather between winter storms. But, this is a rugged and wild place and you should prepare accordingly.

Plan to get yourself out of the situations you put yourself into.

I know what the conditions may have been yesterday or a week ago – but things change, sometimes quickly and drastically for better or worse. You’ll need to use your best judgment based on the conditions and the skills/abilities of your group. Look up, look around, pay attention, study the waves and the behavior of the ocean.

Use the following links to help plan your trip:

General weather

5 day precipitation forecast

14 day precipitation forecast – one of my favorites but changes often so check back frequently leading up to your trip. Tip: let the model run all the way through then you can stop it and click through step by step. Look up at the top for the date and hour.

Ocean forecast 

Tides

BLM King Range National Conservation Area 

Give me a call or send me an e-mail if you have any questions. 

707-986-5405

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

Your Wilderness Ranger, 

Paul