Rescue on the Lost Coast

This past weekend a group of backpackers on the Lost Coast were rescued by the Coast Guard. 

Read about the incident here:

http://lostcoastoutpost.com/2013/sep/21/three-hikers-rescued-coast-guard/

Be sure to also read the comment by one of the individuals who was involved with the incident which goes into more detail about exactly what happened.

Let me reiterate that conditions on the Lost Coast are challenging and change rapidly. Be prepared for all weather conditions.

Watch this video I took during a storm back in the winter of 2010

This is near Black Sands Beach – an area that is NOT identified as “impassable at high tide.” When I took this video I was standing on a narrow shelf – about 3-5 feet wide – with the cliffs behind me.

Also, this was only taken about 45 minutes after low tide.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWyPfc1xSSs

What is happening here? Large waves with lots of energy were sending massive amounts of water rushing up the beach – towards the cliffs.

Winter weather conditions and hazardous marine conditions can make travel on the Lost Coast Trail much MUCH more difficult.

Often I am asked, “at what tide level do the impassable zones become impassable/passable.”

Generally, GENERALLY, during calm ocean/weather conditions the impassable zones become impassable at about 3-3.5 feet. BUT, as in the above examples, this isn’t necessarily always the case. This number can be much lower during stormy or hazardous marine conditions when the swell/periods increase.

Just because it is low tide does not necessarily mean that you will be able to cross through the impassable at high tide sections of trail safely.

Also, it is in your best interest to start your travel through these sections well before (several hours is ideal) low tide – NOT on an incoming tide.

You will need to LOOK, SEE, and OBSERVE what the ocean is doing for yourself, when you are out there.

Don’t take my word for it – don’t take anyone’s word for it. There are no guarantees in the Wilderness.

Check these two sources before your trip:

The 14 dayprecipitation model

Marineconditions near Shelter Cove

As of today (9-26-13) this is the NOAA Marine Zone Forecast for the Lost Coast Area:

Small Craft Advisory

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 9 PM PDT THIS EVENING......

Synopsis...NORTH WINDS AND SHORT PERIOD SEAS WILL REMAIN MODERATELY HIGH THROUGH THIS EVENING. NORTH WINDS AND SHORT PERIOD SEAS WILL DIMINISH FRI AND REMAIN RELATIVELY LOW THROUGH SAT. A NEW STORM WILL APPROACH ON SUN AND GENERATE MODERATELY STRONG SOUTH WINDS. THIS STORM WILL ALSO PRODUCE LARGE SEAS THAT WILL PERSIST ON MON. 

---

Tonight: N winds 15 to 25 kt...easing to 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 35 kt this evening. Waves NW 11 ft at 9 seconds.

Fri: NW winds 5 to 15 kt. Waves NW 6 ft at 8 seconds. 

Fri Night: N winds 5 to 15 kt. Waves NW 5 ft at 8 seconds. 

Sat: NW winds 5 kt. Waves NW 5 ft at 11 seconds. 

Sat Night: S winds up to 5 kt. Waves NW 5 ft at 13 seconds. 

Sun: S winds 10 to 20 kt. Waves NW 15 ft at 14 seconds. 

Mon: NW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves NW 14 ft at 14 seconds. 

Tue: NW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves NW 9 ft at 13 seconds. 

Now, check the tide levels for this weekend and you’ll see that the afternoon lows are not very low at all (about 3 feet). This combined with the 15 ft swell @ 14 seconds (BIG/lots of energy!) will make the “impassable zones” even more challenging to get through.

Here are some explanations I found to help you figure out what these numbers mean:

Swellinfo.com:

“What this means to you... The longer the period, the more potential for a larger wave.

A swell with 5ft @ 7 (swell A) seconds and a swell with 5ft @ 12 (swell B) seconds can be much different.

What happens is the wave rolls through in the open ocean... when it approaches shallow waters is starts to feel the ocean bottom. As it does this, the wave becomes bigger and bigger before it topples over and breaks. The longer the wavelength (or period), the more chance for the wave to build up before it topples over.”

Use caution when traveling on the Lost Coast. The best tools you have are your senses and your mind. If you have to wait it out – wait it out. If you have to turn back – turn back. Are you prepared for this? Are you prepared to spend another day or more if you have to? How important are goals and planned schedules to maintain when you could be putting yourself or others in the way of harm?  

To me, the wilderness is a place to test your skills, to test yourself and your ability of self-reliance. Make your decisions wisely and as if there will never be anyone to rescue you. Are you willing to put other people’s lives at risk (rescuers have died during rescue operations)? Can you wait out your situation? IS there any possible way to rescue yourself?

Be safe out there, 

Your Wilderness Ranger, 

Paul Sever

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

707-986-5405 (my desk phone

707-986-5400 (main phone/front desk)

Bear Canisters: A Friendly Reminder

Good morning fellow backpackers,

I would like to remind you that when you are camped in the King Range wilderness overnight you need to have a bear resistant food canister with you to store all food and scented items.

From my observations it seems that 93-95% of folks DO have bear canisters with them.

This is Fantastic and you should all give yourselves a pat on the back!

The bears and other wildlife also greatly thank you because, after all, it's for their well-being that you're using the canisters after all. When a bear eats human food and learns that humans can be associated with an easy meal they will lost their fear of humans, come around campsites more often, and can become increasingly aggressive. This is what would be called a "habituated" or "food conditioned" bear. This is what we want to avoid and is why you are required to use a bear canister for all of your food and scented items.

BUT, my main point of this post is about the proper use of the canisters.

This is the scene I came across this past weekend:

It is not enough to just have the bear canister in your possession - We must use them correctly.

This means having all of your food (yes, this included freeze dried and canned foods - the animals can smell those too) and scented items (toothpaste, sunscreen, etc.) secured in the canister.

PLEASE be sure that the lid is FULLY secured.

Thank you,
Write me an e-mail or give me a call if you have any questions.

Your Wilderness Ranger,
Paul Sever
lostcoastranger@gmail.com
707-986-5405

Camp fire Restrictions: A friendly reminder

Hello all,

I would like to remind you that The King Range National Conservation Area is in campfire restrictions this summer (as we are every summer). If you plan to do any backpacking in the King Range, please refrain from having campfires.

Several times this summer I’ve seen evidence of campfires or have encountered folks having campfires. 

We can do better than this.

Also, this summer we have already had 30+ acres burn due to an escaped campfire (see the picture below of Cooskie Creek).

The conditions in the King Range are not conducive for campfires during the summer!

DRY DRY DRY and often times Windy!

Even if it’s foggy the vegetation is still very dry. Also, conditions change frequently and rapidly here on the coast. I very often see the weather change from calm and foggy to hot and windy in an hour or less. 

Do you want to be responsible for causing a wildfire?

Please, do the right thing and stay wise out there. 

(See the previous post for more information - I highly encourage you to read the article from the North Coast Journal). 

Your Wilderness Ranger

Paul Sever

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

707-986-5405

King Range now in Fire Restrictions

As of Monday, June 10, due to dry fuels and increasing fire danger in the North Coast region, the King Range National Conservation Area has implemented campfire restrictions. 

What this means for you:

Under the restrictions, all campfires and charcoal barbecues are prohibited except in specifically posted campgrounds and recreation sites. In other words, in the King Range, campfires are only allowed at this time in designated campfire rings at our developed recreation sites/campgrounds: Mattole, Tolkan, Honeydew, Nadelos, and Wailaki campgrounds.

Portable stoves and lanterns using gas, jellied petroleum or pressurized liquid fuel are allowed outside of posted recreation sites with a valid California campfire permit. In the King Range, the Wilderness Permit that you are required to obtain and sign serves this purpose.

Please be extremely careful with the use of portable camp stoves, especially stoves that require a priming stage. From my previous blog post:

There have been numerous fires in the past several years due to camp stoves, usually in the priming stage. Anytime you use a stove be sure it is in a safe location away from dry fuels. In the instructions for the Whisperlite stove Mountain Safety Research says to, “keep combustibles 4 feet away from all sides.” More than 4 feet would be a good idea, especially in the extremely dry and windy conditions of the Lost Coast.

This past February there was a very good story in the NorthCoast Journal written by a backpacker who accidentally started a fire on the Lost Coast. The article is well written, eye-opening and very educational. Here is an excerpt:

“Right then, a gust of wind hit, and this ball of flame took on a life of its own, jumping maybe 10 feet to my right and landing on a steep bank of dry grass. In seconds, the entire hillside was a crackling wall of fire. And that's all it took. It was out of control.”

You should take the time to read it.

Also, a reminder that ALL food and scented items need to be stored securely in a bear resistant food canister when not in use. Bears and other critters can smell canned food and even sealed and dehydrated meals. Their sense of smell is much better than yours! 

Give me a call or send me an e-mail if you have any questions. 

Your Wilderness Ranger, 

Paul Sever

707-986-5405

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

I will be away from the office for several days at a time so you can also call our front desk at 707-986-5400

King Range OPEN, Fire Safety, Volunteers

King Range National Conservation Area is OPEN to all public access as of May 31, after a two-week emergency closure.

BLM officials encourage King Range visitors to pay attention to their surroundings and to report anything suspicious to the Humboldt County Sheriff's Office, (707)445-7251 or to the department's Tip Line, (707)268-2539.

Additionally, as you recreate in the King Range please keep fire safety in mind. Campfires are still permitted at this time but most likely within the next month or so we will go into campfire restrictions as conditions/vegetation become drier. I will post to this blog when the restriction goes into place and you can always call our office to check (707-986-5400).

Two sources of fire to be careful with:

1. Campfires:

Before you have a campfire (if campfires are permitted at the time of your trip):

Assess the scene and decide if it is safe. Is it windy? Are there dry grasses or piles of driftwood near-by? If so, it is a good idea to not have a campfire that night or find a safer location.

If the scene is safe, be sure to always have someone present to watch over/tend the fire and have plenty of water nearby to extinguish any rogue flames.

Keep the fire small by using only dead and down wood no bigger around than your wrist and no longer than the diameter of your fire ring (this doesn’t mean build a huge ring). This will help keep everything contained and manageable. This helps contain the fire in the ring, helps to keep the campsites clean and reduces fire danger. Larger pieces of wood tend to spread ash outside of the ring and break down its perimeter. In turn, this leads to an eye sore for other visitors and encourages them to build another fire ring - multiplying the impacts.

When you are done with the fire put it out using the soak and stir method: Soak with lots of water, stir around the mess and make sure everything is cool to the touch.

The above picture is an example of a fire ring that is too big and the burning of fuel that is too big. How does this look to you? 

2. Stoves:

There have been numerous fires in the past several years due to camp stoves, usually in the priming stage. Anytime you use a stove be sure it is in a safe location away from dry fuels. In the instructions for the Whisperlite stove Mountain Safety Research says to, “keep combustables 4 feet away from all sides.” More than 4 feet would be a good idea, especially in the extremely dry and windy conditions of the Lost Coast.

This past February there was a very good story in the NorthCoast Journal written by a backpacker who accidentally started a fire on the Lost Coast. The article is well written, eye-opening and very educational. Here is an excerpt:

“Right then, a gust of wind hit, and this ball of flame took on a life of its own, jumping maybe 10 feet to my right and landing on a steep bank of dry grass. In seconds, the entire hillside was a crackling wall of fire. And that's all it took. It was out of control.”

You should take the time to read it. 

Volunteers in the King Range NCA:

I would like to thank the volunteers who spent a week of their free time performing trail maintenance in the King Range. They made a huge commitment of time and energy to give back to America’s public lands and we all (myself and the King Range staff, everyone that recreates here and all members of the public even if they never set foot here) give them a round of applause.

1. Wilderness Volunteers

2. American Hiking Society

Your Wilderness Ranger, 

Paul Sever

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

707-986-5405

or

707-986-5400 (main line)

King Range is CLOSED Through May 30th

The entire King Range National Conservation Area is closed until May 30th as the search for Shasta County triple homicide suspect, Shane Miller, continues.

For more information visit Lostcoastoutpost 

Fascinating Creatures of the King Range

I ran across several of these Newts today in a small pond in the King Range NCA. I originally had these misidentified as Red-bellied but a gentleman called me today and informed me that these are actually Rough-skinned. I shot an e-mail to our Forest Ecologist and he confirmed this:

the photos you took are of a rough-skinned newt (Taricha granulosa). Their bellies range from yellow to orange and they have yellow in their eyes, whereas the red-bellied newt (Taricha rivularis) has a red or bright orange belly and an all black eye (no yellow). Both are toxic so washing one's hands after handling them is a good idea. 

So there we have it! These are definitely some of my favorite creatures - and they are native to the forests along the coast of northern California.

Spring Break on the Lost Coast: What to Know

Spring break will soon be upon us and if you’re reading this you may be thinking about visiting the King Range for your break. I’m here with fellow backpackers Sam and Rudolph who are hounding me with questions that you will also find useful.

1. What’s the weather usually like this time of year?

Well, March of 2012 was very wet but it looks like things may be a bit on the dryer side this year. Continue to check the local forecast and be prepared for any kind of weather conditions as events can change frequently and rapidly here on the coast.

Above is a snapshot of the 14 day precipitation model on March 11.

Also, the creeks are quite low and easily passible as of this moment. Expect that if current conditions (low rainfall) continue that these conditions will persist –unless/until we get seriously dumped on.  

2. There are sections of trail that are impassible at high tide, right?

That's correct. You need to have a map, a tide chart and know where the  4 “impassable during high tide” sections of trail are. Pass through these areas at low tide. It is a good idea to start passing through 1-3 hours before the time that low tide is indicated on the chart as this is the low point and the tide will start to come back up after this.

Above, a backpacker times the waves and attempts to pass arond a rocky cliff.

The impassable at high tide sections of trail are:

Punta Gorda 

Sea Lion Gulch to Randall Creek

Miller Flat to about one mile south of Buck Creek

South of Shelter Cove is Point No Pass. This is impassable at ALL tide levels. Do Not Attempt. If you plan to hike from Shelter Cove to the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park catch the Lost Coast Trail at Hidden Valley. The trailhead is on Chemise Mountain Road, off of Shelter Cove Road.

Also, know that during high tide you can be camped at the major creeks (named on the map) that are in the middle of the “impassable at high tide” zones because the creek mouths give you plenty of space to move up off the beach.

3. Do I need to get some kind of a permit? What is this for?

Yes.  The permit serves multiple purposes. It serves as a way to get essential information to you and to ultimately reduce impacts to the wilderness environment. It is also a tool to locate lost/missing hikers. For example, if we notice a vehicle has been sitting at a trailhead for an unusual amount of time we can try to find a permit with a matching licensed plate number. Based on what they indicated on their permit we can determine how many people are in their group, where they planned to go, and when they planned to come out of the backcountry (this information also helps to calm worried family members who occasionally call our office – it’s a good practice to tell someone where you’re going and the details of your plans). For the King Range, this backcountry permit also serves as your campfire permit. When you sign the permit you,

“…agree to follow the guidelines for overnight camping in the King Range backcountry, especially regarding the use of bear-proof canisters, backcountry sanitation, and the use of fire.”

Currently, we have free self-service permits that you can pick up at any of the trailheads or at our office in Whitethorn (768 Shelter Cove Road). Please take a few moments before your trip to fill one out AND read it over front to back with ALL members of your party.

4. Are there bears in the King Range? Do I need a bear canister to store food and scented items?

Yes and yes. The number ONE thing you can do to respect wildlife in the King Range is to have a bear canister and to use it properly. The bear can is to protect the bears from your food and the extra bonus is that you also protect your food from the bears. You will notice on top of the Garcia Backpackers’ Cache it says, “Save the bears” (it does not say, “Save your food”). So, what does this mean? When a bear starts to eat human food and learns that humans can be associated with an easy meal they will lose their fear of humans, come around campsites more often, and become increasingly aggressive. This is what you would call a “habituated” or “food conditioned” bear and they could eventually need to be put down if the aggression gets out of hand.

Hanging your food is NOT an option in the King Range and on the Lost Coast Trail. You may be experienced with hanging food but there is a serious lack of sufficient trees on the LCT. Requirements for hanging food vary from place to place but generally 10’ high and 4’ from the base of the tree would be sufficient. You are not going to be able to achieve this on the LCT.

All overnight visitors must store all of their food, toiletries and scented items (Including trash!) in a hard-sided bear-proof container approved by the Sierra Interagency Black Bear Group (SIBBG). We rent out the Garcia bear can here at the BLM Project Office in Whitethorn for $5 for your entire journey. You will need a credit card and a drivers licensed (if you don’t return the bear can you will buy it). We are open Monday-Friday 8-4:30.

Other places to rent cans (call for availability, hours and prices):

BLM Arcata Field Office (same hours and prices as the Whitethorn office)

1695 Heindon Rd. Arcata

707-825-2300

Shelter Cove General Store

7272 Shelter Cove Rd. Whitethorn

707-986-7733

HSU center Activities

707-826-3357

http://humboldt.edu/centeractivities/rentalGear.php

Petrolia General Store

707-629-3455

REI also rents bear cans but the pricing varies from store to store so I won’t list it here. They did tell me that it is substantially less expensive for members, however.

Lastly, there are two other critters that the bear can is good for: the raccoon and the mouse. These little animals are a nuisance as far as your food is concerned. They are very active and also want your food.

Do yourself a favor AND help protect the animals in the king range by getting a bear can.

5. I heard there was a unique method of human waste disposal on the LCT, what is that?

The steep and rocky cliffs along the trail and at the major drainages/camping areas make finding a place to go 200 feet away from campsites, trails, and drinking water sources (standard Leave No Trace practice) nearly impossible – therefore, we have found that the ocean is the most ideal place to dispose of human waste (while on the coastal trail).



When you need to dispose of solid human waste on the LCT dig a hole 6-8 inches deep in the wet sand below the high tide line (or as close to the wet sand as safely possible), make your deposit, and then cover the hole with sand. On all other inland trails please go about 70 paces (200’) from campsites, trails, and water sources to help protect the streams we get our water from and to keep the campsites sanitary. AND Nobody wants to camp next to your turd. C’mon.

There are 4 goals with human waste disposal in the backcountry:

1. Minimize contact with water sources

2. Minimize contact with insects and wildlife

3. Minimize social impacts. This is the disgusting factor when you see a pile of waste right next to where you are camping.

4. Maximize decomposition (when we bury it 6-8 inches it maximizes decomposition by mixing with the soil and microbiological organisms. Putting a 6-8 inch rock on top of it is not burying it).

What about the TP?

Good question. You can go ahead and toss that into the hole with the waste. But, if you want to be a true LNT guru you can bring a good solid plastic bag and pack it out. Some folks that do this line the outside of the bag with duct tape to help reinforcement and for visual purposes.

6. Can I have a camp fire this time of year?

Campfires are permitted right now (March) We ask that you use existing fire rings and keep the fire small by using only small pieces of wood that you can break by hand. This helps contain the fire in the ring, helps to keep the campsites clean and reduces fire danger. Larger pieces of wood tend to spread ash outside of the ring and breaks down its perimeter. In turn, this leads to an eye sore for other visitors and encourages them to build another fire ring - multiplying the impacts.Please put your fire out with plenty of water with the soak and stir method. It should be cool to the touch by the time you’re done.

A campfire ring in a state of dissaray - lets do our best to avoid this



Also, please pack out your trash. This is general knowledge and backcountry etiquette but am surprised about the amount of trash I sometimes find and pack out of the wilderness.

FYI, glass, cans and foil don’t burn.  

6. Hey, Paul do you think it’s cool if I blast out the good vibes with my handheld radio?

 

Keep in mind that many folks that come out here would like to experience the sights and sounds of nature, not whatever music you may be listening to. So, maybe not “blast” but if you want to listen to music I encourage you to keep it low and/or use headphones to respect other visitors.

Well, I think that just about covers it unless you two have any other questions?

Actually, yeah, I’m curious what do you eat when you’re out on the trail?

Hmm. Ok. Well, I’ve been really into burritos lately. I get dehydrated black and pinto bean flakes from the bulk bins at the grocery store, cook those up and toss ‘em on a large tortilla with cheese and avocado (pack out remains) and hot sauce. This really hits the spot.

For breakfast I usually have oatmeal or granola and two hardboiled eggs (I prep the eggs before my trip). Lunch usually consists of a variety of nuts, dried fruit and beef jerky. Maybe some cheese and an energy bar of some sort.

Ok, well you guys have a good time out there. You should definitely check out the Leave No Trace web page before you’re trip.

Give me a call if you have any questions

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

707-986-5405

lostcoastranger@gmail.com